The Testpiece Podcast

Testpiece

Sports

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195 épisodes

Good Temps #9 — Live Streaming Free Soloing, Everyone Does V17 In RR, Wet Rock Common Sense, and 2025’s Winners / Losers / ’26 Predictions
19/1/2026 | 1 h 18 min
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
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This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh
2025 Top 3 Moments
2025’s Biggest Winners
2025’s Biggest Losers
2026 Predictions & Wishes
“Savage Downgrades”
“Big Toe Condoms”

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#181 Tim, My Dude — Chasing Mastery, The Challenge You Actually Want, V14 Highball FA, and Tim’s Approach To Coaching
12/1/2026 | 1 h 52 min
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!
Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.
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Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?
Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?
Would you be willing to change your proposed grade of Mandala Sit to V14?
SHOW NOTES:
timkangcoaching.com
Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang

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Board Talk #7 — New MoonBoard?!, Quantum Board, BL#9, and What’s Coming In 2026 with Benn Wheeler and Risotto Rhomboids
05/1/2026 | 1 h 37 min
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.

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Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing
Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)
Everyone's Favorite and Least Favorite TB2 Holds

SHOW NOTES:
StoneLine Podcast w/ Ben Moon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2W8P-tKM40
Quantum Board Session w/ Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi: https://youtu.be/j-PMLkanWCQ?si=MdNKzok20A6IBPeD
Board Lords #9: https://youtu.be/xJcj99-_UVw?si=oiUbUzWUTXvFyAOL
Lumo board: https://www.lumoclimbing.com/
Shiny Wall: https://shinywall.com/en/standard-max-full/

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[REDUX] Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
29/12/2025 | 1 h 51 min
This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back.
We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone!
Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024.
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now.
Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours!
His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.
Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!

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#180 ‘Anti-Mega’ — GP81’s Julian Acevedo and Zoe Sayetta On Building Elite Training Facilities For All Ages
22/12/2025 | 1 h 33 min
Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community.
GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades.
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Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? More gyms? More YTC’s? Can you do that while still being ‘anti-mega’?
How you deal with serious issues from kids, like eating disorders, or serious anxiety around competition or falling?

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