Most of us avoid nettles, thinking of them as weeds whose little stinging hairs can inject a painful toxin into the unexpecting walker. But strolling through the woods near his home in England, Allan Brown was captivated by the tall native plants. Knowing that textile cultures across the world have produced cloth from nettles, he wanted to learn more about cloth made with nettle fiber. Except for a few exceptions—giant Himalayan nettles and ramie, which is a non-stinging plant in the nettle family—the era of nettle textiles is over. But thousands of years ago, nettle cloth and cordage fulfilled human needs for garments and tools. Like other ancient textiles, nettle cloth has almost entirely disappeared, rotted away and returned to the soil. Allan knew that the only way to experience cloth made from nettle would be to create it himself, so he set about processing, spinning, and weaving fabric from stands of nettles that grew wild in the woods. Before he could get down to cloth-making, though, he had to learn how to extract the fiber from the plant—a process without contemporary documentation or a skilled teacher. (The stinging parts of the plant are removed during processing, so textiles made from nettle fiber feel more like cotton or linen than stinging barbs.) He learned to spin, which proved not only the most time-consuming but also the most meaningful part of the project. “I just found spinning so therapeutic,” he says. He felt the solace of handspinning keenly when his wife, Alex, passed away over the course of his nettle exploration. In the aftermath of Alex dying, my world grew very small, my perimeters drew in, and I was just looking after the family. Sometimes my only connection to a wider world was just going out and collecting nettles, but it was within a really small geographical margin. So I think events sort of led me to, rather than looking for bigger and more, I tuned into the familiar, going in deeper and seeing what I could find and what I’d previously overlooked. And realizing, oh my goodness—all these plants, they provide dyes, these plants provide fibers, and they’re all there right on my doorstep and have been under my nose all along. So it feels like it’s really connected me to a sense of place in a much deeper way than perhaps I had been before. As he spun years’ worth of yarn, Allan decided that the nettle project would culimate in a dress. A simple shape, cut efficiently from a narrow width of cloth, would be enough to create a dress for his daughter Oonagh, so he wove yards of plain-weave fabric and even spun the sewing thread to stitch the piece together. Seven years after his first experiments with nettle fiber, he slipped a handmade nettle dress over her head. Following Allan on his exploration, his film-director friend Dylan Howitt captured the stages of the process and has released a film called The Nettle Dress. (https://www.nettledress.org/) The film has been released in a number of markets, including the United Kingdom, and some audiences have been fortunate to meet the fiber artist and even touch the dress at a screening. The story of the dress and its creator remind us that the long history of foraged, handmade cloth can be ours again if we have the dedication to revive it. This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. Links The Nettle Dress film website (https://www.nettledress.org/) The Nettle Dress on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/nettledressfilm/) Nettles for Textiles Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1648679398499874/) Nettles for Textiles web page (http://www.nettlesfortextiles.org.uk/wp/) From Sting to Spin, a History of Nettle Fibre (https://gillianedomsbook.blogspot.com/p/buy-book.html) by Gillian Edom

Kristin Nicholas lives in an idyllic historic New England home at the end of a dirt road, the interior handpainted in whimsical, vivid motifs. In neighboring fields, her family's hundreds of sheep graze in historic pastures. “From the outside looking in, it looks like a very romantic life,” she says. “But it is a ton of work. Most sane people wouldn’t do it, as far as I’m concerned.” Kristin has never had a hard time reconciling her creative and practical sides, and in fiber art, she found a home for both. When she met her husband, one of their first outings was to the sheep barns where he had just taken a class in animal science. They put their passions for animals and textiles into practice right away when they bought their first four Romney sheep. Her mother says of the purchase, “Some people get an engagement ring. Kristin gets four sheep.” As the creative director for Classic Elite Yarns, she designed knitwear, developed yarn lines and pattern collections, and helped transform the company from a small weaving-yarn distributor to a major yarn company. In her role, she selected and predicted which yarns would be most appealing to consumers and successful for yarn stores. Her own style, though, is absolutely distinctive. With bright colors and global textile inspirations, her bold designs have a folk art quality. Through her decades in the yarn industry and as a professional artist, Kristin’s work has always drawn on her love of fiber and her showplace farm. Although their flock has grown from 4 to 400, Kristin is unsentimental about the need for the farming operation to turn a profit. “I'm a super practical person,” she says. “I have this whole artistic vision floating around in my head, but things have got to make sense financially for me.” This means that although she has been a spinner and knitter for decades, she does not mill the wool from her sheep into yarn. With a realistic eye on the high costs and low income from wool, she and her husband have decided to focus their efforts on raising lamb. A local yarn company, Bloom Woolen Yarns, arranges to purchase the wool clip instead. These days, Kristin’s main creative outlet is her line of handpainted ceramics. She sells her pottery as well as grassfed lamb at the weekly farmer's market in Amherst, Massachusetts. She shares dispatches from her farm on her Substack newsletter. This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. Anson County Fiber Arts Festival The Anson County Fiber Arts Festival is the place to discover the wonderful world of cotton and hemp fibers, and so much more! You’ll find fibers from animal and plant, plus a vendor hall, workshops, used equipment sale, a engaging fiber shed, and activities for the entire family. Plus, the town’s historical society will take you on a journey of the town’s deep roots as a textile town. Join them September 22-23 at their inaugural event in historic, uptown Wadesboro, North Carolina. For more information, visit ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com (https://ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com) or follow them on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090568583693&locale=hi_IN&paipv=0&eav=AfabFyZchm6Yvmp-etfgtk3xE3IQtUfGaU4jkfFNMuOJ0UdwJ0XqIsThH9i7mFi4NtI). Links: “Wool Production from Small Flocks of Sheep” (https://www.datocms-assets.com/75073/1694120595-nicholas_wool-production-from-small-flocks-of-sheep.pdf) “How Much Is That Knitter in the Window?” (https://www.datocms-assets.com/75073/1694122220-nicholas_how-much-is-that-spinner-in-the-window.pdf) Spin Off Summer 1983 (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/spin-off-summer-1983-digital-edition?_pos=2&_sid=c04d222dd&_ss=r) (available free to Spin Off subscribers; see our help center (https://help.longthreadmedia.com/help/accessing-spin-off-digital-issues-via-zinio) for directions to access) Kristin Nicholas’s website (https://www.kristinnicholas.com/) PDF Patterns (https://www.kristinnicholas.com/category/knitting-pdf-patterns) Kristin’s Substack (https://kristinnicholas.substack.com/) newsletter Kristin’s colorful house (https://www.kristinnicholas.com/fun-video-of-our-house-family-and-farm) The farm and lamb business can be found at Leyden Glen Farm (http://www.leydenglenlamb.com/). Bloom Woolen Yarns (https://www.bloomwoolenyarns.com/)

When she married her husband, "polyester kid" Anita Luvera Mayer received an extraordinary wedding gift from her mother-in-law: a loom and weaving lessons. A weaving store owner, Marcelle Mayer gave the same gift to each of her daughters-in-law. The others didn't take to it, but for Anita it was the beginning of a whole new life. Although she preferred making simple cloth to complex patterns, weaving opened the doors to meeting other fiber artists, teaching across North America, and learning to make her own clothes, beginning with a "pukey green dress" that she wore for years and kept as a teaching tool. Exploring new techniques and refining her approach, she championed the revolutionary idea that women—all women—should like what they see when they look in the mirror. Anita Luvera Mayer is an inspiration . . . and a delight. This episode was originally released in 2021. This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. Anson County Fiber Arts Festival The Anson County Fiber Arts Festival is the place to discover the wonderful world of cotton and hemp fibers, and so much more! You'll find fibers from animal and plant, plus a vendor hall, workshops, used equipment sale, a engaging fiber shed, and activities for the entire family. Plus, the town's historical society will take you on a journey of the town's deep roots as a textile town. Join them September 22-23 at their inaugural event in historic, uptown Wadesboro, North Carolina. For more information, visit ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com (https://ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com) or follow them on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090568583693&locale=hi_IN&paipv=0&eav=AfabFyZchm6Yvmp-etfgtk3xE3IQtUfGaU4jkfFNMuOJ0UdwJ0XqIsThH9i7mFi4NtI).

Susan Druding was a graduate student at the University of California-Berkeley when she first learned to spin and weave. In the Bay Area of the 1960s, fiber interest and social tensions both ran high. Without a business plan but with a lease on a small storefront, Susan and a business partner opened Straw Into Gold, a store devoted mostly to spinning and dyeing. Spinning legend Bette Hochberg, author of Handspinner's Handbook and Spin Span Spun, was a regular, and legendary spinning wheel maker Alden Amos set up shop in the basement. Award-winning spinner Celia Quinn ran the old carding machine that they used to create rainbow batts. They became the first United States distributor of Ashford spinning wheels and equipment. Whether as a shop owner or storyteller, Susan Druding has yarns like nobody else. This episode was originally released in 2021. This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. Anson County Fiber Arts Festival The Anson County Fiber Arts Festival is the place to discover the wonderful world of cotton and hemp fibers, and so much more! You'll find fibers from animal and plant, plus a vendor hall, workshops, used equipment sale, a engaging fiber shed, and activities for the entire family. Plus, the town's historical society will take you on a journey of the town's deep roots as a textile town. Join them September 22-23 at their inaugural event in historic, uptown Wadesboro, North Carolina. For more information, visit ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com (https://ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com) or follow them on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090568583693&locale=hi_IN&paipv=0&eav=AfabFyZchm6Yvmp-etfgtk3xE3IQtUfGaU4jkfFNMuOJ0UdwJ0XqIsThH9i7mFi4NtI).

After you finish weaving fabric that you love and are proud of, cutting it up can be an unappealing thought. What if it falls apart? What if you make the wrong cut? What if the finished piece doesn't turn out like you picture it? For Daryl Lancaster, the challenges of transforming a handwoven fabric into a wearable garment are the real pleasure—and if problem-solving is the goal, then what looks like a problem is really a creative prompt. As she tells her students, "This is fiber. There's always a way to fix it. There's always a way to go to Plan B, and we have a really big alphabet." With decades of teaching sewing classes and a line of patterns specifically designed for handwoven fabric, you might expect her to have firm rules about what fabrics to use with which patterns, but she takes a relaxed approach. "When you sew garments, any pattern will work. You have to have the skill set to make it work right. But patterns are patterns. The hardest part is to get it to fit," she says. "Any pattern, once you get it to fit you, you can turn into a garment, as long as the fabric that you have is suitable for that silhouette. And if it's not, can you make it suitable, or should you try a different silhouette?" One of her long-term projects for Handwoven was a series of color and fabric forecasts that anticipated fashion trends. With an eye on world events, cultural happenings, and even sports schedules, she created a set of images designed to inspire weavers to move outside their traditional yarn choices. Today Pinterest and Etsy have joined the famed Pantone in making forecasts freely available, but seeing the large-scale trends interpreted for an audience of handweavers is an inspiring way to look at the industry models. In recent years, Daryl has stopped traveling to teach. Instead, she offers virtual lectures and has built a robust YouTube channel that covers general sewing and fitting as well as specific tips for working with her patterns. In her time at home, she's enjoying weaving on her 64 (!) looms, including a fleet of little eight-shaft metal Structo looms. Funny, bold, and innovative, Daryl is exploring new ways of sharing her ideas even as she enjoys the evolution of her weaving practice from business to hobby. "You know, I'm at this wonderful crossroads in my life where that part of my career on the road teaching is done," she says. "Now I'm trying to reprogram my brain that I don't have to be a teacher anymore. You know, there are new people coming on to do this. And if I've left them information on my experience for them to use, have at it." Episode show notes including photos at handwovenmagazine.com (https://handwovenmagazine.com/long-thread-podcast-daryl-lancaster). This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. Anson County Fiber Arts Festival The Anson County Fiber Arts Festival is the place to discover the wonderful world of cotton and hemp fibers, and so much more! You'll find fibers from animal and plant, plus a vendor hall, workshops, used equipment sale, a engaging fiber shed, and activities for the entire family. Plus, the town's historical society will take you on a journey of the town's deep roots as a textile town. Join them September 22-23 at their inaugural event in historic, uptown Wadesboro, North Carolina. For more information, visit ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com (https://ansoncountyfiberartsfestival.com) or follow them on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090568583693&locale=hi_IN&paipv=0&eav=AfabFyZchm6Yvmp-etfgtk3xE3IQtUfGaU4jkfFNMuOJ0UdwJ0XqIsThH9i7mFi4NtI). Links Daryl Lancaster's website (https://www.daryllancaster.com/) Daryl's YouTube channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmz2mYvnteUP11-LvK8-eNg/videos) Sewing patterns and digital monographs (https://www.weaversew.com/shop/) “Handwoven Kitchen Aides: Where Have all the Aprons Gone?” Handwoven March/April 2002. (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/handwoven-march-april-2002-digital-edition) “Lose Weight, Reduce Stress.” Handwoven January/February 2002. (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/handwoven-january-february-2002-digital-edition) Daryl's trend forecasting began with "Color Forecasting” in Handwoven September/October 2003 (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/handwoven-september-october-2003-digital-edition) and ran through January/February 2007 (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/handwoven-january-february-2008-digital-edition). "The Indestructible (tiny) Structo." Handwoven September/October 2017. (https://shop.longthreadmedia.com/products/handwoven-september-october-2017-digital-edition)